The color of the season? There’s never really just one these days. However, there is a consensus on the look at me color – and on the acid. Valentino pioneered a neon explosion with a range of Stabilo green, fuchsia and yellow colors; Christopher Kane, a longtime advocate of neon (“I love neon – very man-made and loud and disgusting”, once told Vogue) appeared in bright modern, orange and pink lace appearances that are connected to the more mantra of joy. . “; and even Rei Kawakubo turned neon pink to prepare to take over Orlando (designing costumes for Olga Neuwirth’s adaptation to Virginia Woolf’s novel, opening at the Vienna State Opera in December 2019). Go to the glow.

The tailor’s grip is as solid as ever (if you want to invest in a sample pant suit, now is the time), but that doesn’t mean there are no new, well-cut offers. Exhibition A: shorts set. In Givenchy, which was tall and simple, just below the knee, they channeled what Clare Waight Keller called “raw, childish energy”; Thanks to Ian Griffiths’ desire to dress female assassins in Max Mara, there was a sharp, slightly militaristic fold; Michael Kors, Salvatore Ferragamo and Rejina Pyo looked positively enthusiastic, cutting off the thigh. Now you may be skeptical, but considering how much you got married to the blazers, consider this trend as logical and inevitable progress.

Do you feel ethereal? You are in a treat: spring seems to be a blessing time for white dresses. Of course, this does not mean that you will have your old nightgown. Delicate Guipure, Chantilly and marguerite lace and Japanese satins are deployed in Loewe, decorated with makramé, organdie bows and delicate flowers. “He couldn’t bear the raw stitches, but he had to rely on precision,” said Jonathan Anderson about his extreme vision of femininity. Side note: a great season for off-peg wedding dresses. Consider this look to carefree summers (as long as you stay away from children, pets and red wines).

When it comes to vests, think of Glastonbury, not Gareth Southgate – specifically, consider Kate Moss at Glastonbury in 2005. Trim your body tightly and become the center of micro shorts, fluffy shirts and sometimes a black tailor vest worn with nothing underneath. Moss Noughties look – and the spring / summer 2020 release of Saint Laurent (worn by Kaia Gerber) was an open comeback. Elsewhere, the vest gave elegance to the 70s jeans and Crêpe de Chine blouses in Celine, the chocolate brown combination in Hermès, and wide-legged trousers in Sacai, childish convenience.

Erogenous zones are getting creative. Ever desired to expose a small section of your mid-section? Head to Balmain. As for a triangle under your sternum? Oscar de la Renta, Emporio Armani and Missoni can all oblige. Even Rick Owens was keen for a cut-out-and-keep moment, in an extraordinary show that mixed twisted princess gowns with politics and giant soap bubbles in Paris’s Palais de Tokyo. Perhaps that’s the point of the new-look cut-out. The majority feel just a little “off” – not conventionally sexy, rather, unusual.

Fashionable love affair with trench coats – this practical, reliable, all-inclusive outerwear option – shows no signs of reduction. This season comes in fresh colors (silver in JW Anderson, peppermint in Balenciaga), cuts and gloss finishes (Junya Watanabe) in the 70s cheeky corsages (see Louis Vuitton). She even dresses for dinner at Fendi.